Hiroshima
57 years ago, 75% of this city was reduced to rubble by the first atomic bomb used in war. In a remarkable feat of durability, the citizens gradually recovered from the shock and devastation to rebuild their city. Hiroshima is amazing - it remembers the bombing, but is in no way captured irreparably by it.
The Genbaku Dome building is an incredible reminder to the potency of the bombing, but it seems to have been forgotten by most of the people and workers in the area. We visited the Memorial Museum, which is a sombre and tragic place, every corner filled with disturbing and sad stories. Of the families separated and never reunited, the fathers failing their children, and of the post-effects of nuclear radiation upon both the people in the city at the time, and the people from all over Japan who rushed to their aid. We emerged a little shell-shocked, but luckily, an accoustic duo on the bridge (which seems to be the focal point for all budding musicians) cheered us up with an appropriately happy song.
Hiroshima is also famous for other things - okonomiyake, the Japanese savoury pancake, made on a hot plate and served sizzling while you drink beer from a glass dripping with ice. The trams scavenged from all over Japan, in any shape or condition. Hiroshima Castle, now a recreation after the first was destroyed in the atomic bomb blast.
And one of Japan's official top three views.
The torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine, on Miyajima, is an amazing structure that's been standing for over 1300 years. It sits about 100m from the shore, and in high tide, when the base is under water, appears to be almost floating. At low tide, it's possible to walk out and touch the gate.
Watch out for the deer on the island, though - they eat anything.
There seems to be a real youth culture around Hondori, the main shopping district. It's easy to sit in one of the second-floor wine bars people watching after dark.
